Touring France in a motorhome Day Thirty-eight Balarac Les Bains

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October 4^th – Day thirty eight

Is Balarac Les Bains worth visiting in a motorhome tour?

Today is moving on day and it has been a double blow morning. Firstly, the sudden announcement, a day or so ago, that the site will close. Secondly, a shock discovery. All last week I had this head cold lurgy. For two days I practically never left Bryony. Feeling better by midweek, we did some cycling.  This morning we all have to leave the site and I'm feeling terrible despite one of the most stunning sunrises I have ever witnessed. The dawning reality that I might actually have Covid and not a cold chill caught from stargazing one cold night is a shock. The test is positive! We stop, pause, regroup, have breakfast and I'm feeling better just like that! We need a plan; one that minimises risk to others and ourselves. Its clear Mag will get it and probably double the viral load I had. She’s been cooped up with me for days!

We need to be very close to a supermarket; one we can dash in and out of when its virtually empty; a site where we have access to a pharmacy close by; where we can be completely isolated and self-contained but within shouting ‘help’ distance of people if we need to. Where there are medical centres within 10km; a site where we can go for walks in remote areas without affecting people. Search for sites app (S4S) becomes a lot smaller when you start putting in those criteria and every campsite across the south coast has now officially closed. This is looking like a potential disaster; something we foolishly hadn’t planned a contingency for.

Heading for a camping car site outside Meze, we suddenly realise it fails all our criteria – too far out of town, no close pharmacy or supermarket. But, and it’s a very BIG but, the municipal site at Balarac Les Bains fits all the boxes and criteria, if we can find a space there. It isn’t a site that can be booked on the internet or by phone. You just turn up and pray it has spaces.

We arrive at the site at 1030 and are lucky. Three pitches available out of 138 or so. Nearly all of them have been taken by long term liveaboards, all here for the winter season. Can’t blame them – what a fantastic spot. We grab a nice open pitch onto the little roadway which winds around the site; space outside Bryony’s rear door to sit without infecting passer-bys.  A supermarket just across the road that opens very early. Tap close by. We can have minimal contact with others on site.

Good job we moved now. Maggie goes down with Covid the following night.  Badly! High temperature, freezing shakes, coughing and fever. I’m so worried I stay up most of the night and at one point almost reach for the phone to call for an ambulance.  

Useful information

Route: D 51 – D613

Distance: 18 miles

Costs: 126 euros campsite fees; Lpg top up 6 euros