The Grand tour of France 5th September - day seven

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There is something above us and its woken me. 0645 on the alarm clock. “What is that hissing roar?” I dress and dash outside to discover an extraordinarily beautiful, serene scene. River banks are wreathed in slivery-grey tendrils of rising gossamer mist. Sunrise paints a golden hue across giant weeping willow trees whose majestic draperies of long shaggy tendrils reach down to dew-covered grass below; the ‘dreadlock’ trees of the woodland world. A truly striking scene with spectacular river bank reflections on a mirror glass river surface. An occasional pike chases a fish in the shallows whilst further out in deeper waters, fish jump, creating concentric circular ripples as a remnant of their hope in catching one of the small flies darting and skimming back and forth across the silver surface.  

That hissing roaring sound?

Splashes of vibrant colour between tree branches and directly overhead. Red, Yellow, Green. Huge air balloons with wicker baskets slung beneath; roaring jets of flame from brightly glinting chrome steel burners illuminating their vast interiors. A balloon fiesta setting off from the Chateau grounds a mile or so down river.

 

1030 and we are on the bikes; down a little ramp to the river. Just a little further downstream along the bumpy woodland cycle path, the fabulously exquisite Chenonceaux Chateau. What a triumph of architectural and defensive design! Everyone stops to take pictures. We are taking it easy today, so I welcome the stop. I have no e-bike battery and the woodland track is tough going. Non-electric, I only have 9 gears to play with and I seem to be spending most of my time in gear 3. The temperature has climbed to 26C. On the bright side? I will be very fit at the end of this. 

Things we are noticing on this bike ride today then. Well, where to start? Lots of wildlife especially herons and jumping fish below overhanging trees on the river Cher. How well ordered, well cared for and well signed posted the Loire Velo routes are; impressive indeed. Those huge raft clumps of yellow marsh marigolds along the river banks in the water, so striking. 

 Really interesting weirs to oxygenate the water; made of natural materials along with salmon ladders and locks for boats with manned lock keeper cottages. Lots of canoeists but no paddleboarders, surprising. The French really know how to picnic with proper cool boxes, table cloths over picnic benches and a veritable feast of fresh foods served on proper china crockery; chilled wine in real pretty, ornate wine glasses. It’s all pure style! Clean roads and no roadside litter – anywhere! That’s some achievement and some amazing civic pride. Local tourist offices in most villages where you are made to feel welcomed and valued the moment you step through the door. Tranquillity, fresh air, openness and space to breathe.  

By the time we return to the campsite we have cycled over twenty miles along cycle trails of gravel, concrete and woodland hard earth. We have passed woodlands, fields of sunflowers, tilled fields and all the time the river has been alongside us. We stopped at a little town with a bridge over the river where we had coffee in their square (and discovered that Café Crème is like a latte and far less gut rotting). Now, we sit under a pine tree at the campsite café with an ice cream and Pepsi, the pain in my knee forgotten, temporarily.

 

This evening, after showers and a meal, I am back on the internet. None of the local bike shops have replied. Amazon promises delivery of a bike battery in five weeks. I’m at a loss on what to do. My wonderful wife has gamely cycled all day non- electric in support of me. Her knees are slightly sore tonight too. She really does love me doesn’t she!

Later I console myself with a little bit of astrophotography but not for long. The mosquitoes are ferocious!

Cycle route: 22 miles to Montrichard along Loire river velo route, first heading in the opposite direction!