Croatia or Bust 2025 - week 5 - Taking a motorhome down to Croatia and back, from the UK

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You can find the start of our posts about our Croatian adventure here: https://wherenexthun.blogspot.com/2026/02/a-motorhome-tour-down-to-croatia-and.html

Tuesday 30th  September: Day twenty eight – week five beginning

Cycling Through Rural Croatia: A Journey into Timeless Tranquillity

We set off this morning, winding our way through narrow, twisting lanes that seemed to lead us deeper into the heart of rural Croatia. The landscape here is like a living ‘landscape’ painting - a floodplain stretching between the ridges of hills, dotted with hamlets perched along the sides like scattered gems.

Cattle and sheep graze peacefully in rectangular plots of land, their presence a gentle reminder of simpler times. The fields are covered in round hay bales wrapped in nets - giant sleeping straw pillows, waiting to be carried off when winter calls. Isolated hamlets where time seems to have slowed down. Derelict farm buildings standing like forgotten sentinels - collapsed roofs, broken beams, and rusting machinery hidden in dark, dusty corners.



The air was thick with history, each abandoned tractor and forgotten oil drum telling stories of a bygone era. These quiet relics, much like the land itself, seem frozen in time - never likely to stir again.

But here there is life here, too. Bright yellow sunflowers stand proudly, like sun kissed welcoming sentries, at the entrances to newer homes. In the small gardens, peppers, cabbages, tomatoes, and potatoes grow side by side. Neatly trellised vines climb, reaching toward the sun. It’s a world where nature and community are intertwined - where every corner tells the story of hard work, tradition, and quiet pride.

As we stop to consult google maps, an old farmer on an ancient tractor pulls up beside us. He didn’t speak good English, but his gesture - inviting us to follow him, because he knew we were lost - spoke volumes. After reassuring him we weren’t and waving google maps on our phone at him - with a smile and a wave, his rickety, rusted tractor juddered back to life, the once shiny red machine now a weathered companion on his journey of life. He clattered off into the nearby field, a picturesque scene worthy of a Constable painting.

The road signs along the way warned us of bears, boars, and wolves – visual reminders that this rural landscape is as wild as it is beautiful. Mountain bike routes snake up the hillsides, where busy workers at larger farmyards rig heavy canvas tarps over huge round bales, stacking them high in preparation for the coming winter. The land itself and its inhabitants preparing for the colder months ahead.


The little town of Vrlika is where time slows down. After cycling through this idyllic countryside, we reached this charming town perched high above the floodplain. Its medieval fortress, abandoned yet regal, looms like a watchful guardian over the valley below. From here, the view stretches for miles - an endless canvas of green fields, winding rivers, and the hazy outlines of distant hills.

Voting two to zero against cycling up the steep hill to the fort, we found a local coffee spot, a small café where the rhythm of the day slowed down, just like the town itself. A group of regulars had gathered for their mid-morning coffee, exchanging stories with laughter, gestures, and banter. Their faces, weathered and nut-brown from years spent under the sun and wind, were a testament to lives spent working hard in this rugged land. The lines around their eyes and mouths told stories of love, loss, and laughter - of lives well-lived.

As the clock ticked toward midday, families began to trickle onto the café terrace - sunglasses on, wine glasses raised. The café, now bathed in the soft glow of the emerging sun, became a place where time seemed to stretch, as they sat together, sharing coffee, wine, and stories from days gone by. It was the essence of the Mediterranean lifestyle: slow, savouring, and full of joy and life. Meanwhile, Croatian flags fluttering proudly above shop doors, national monuments, and buildings and there was a sense of peace in the air - a quiet pride in the land, the people, and the history that has brought them here. It was, to be truthful, a privilege just sitting there and taking it all in.

A Chance Encounter with Ivan, the Policeman

Our chance encounter with Ivan the Policeman was great fun. We didn’t literally run into him on the bikes, so much as ‘discovered’ him on duty at a roundabout. It would have been rude not to have stopped to say hello. Ivan was standing there, with a friendly smile, so we introduced ourselves. It turns out the road was about to close for a big professional cycle race passing through in a couple of hours.

Maggie quickly pointed out, that we weren’t part of the race and Ivan burst out laughing, his hearty chuckle filling the air. It was a simple, quite funny moment, but one of those small, unexpected joys that travel so often provides. A reminder that even the most ordinary days hold surprises, connections, and a bit of humour.

We’ve loved our short stay at Kamping Peruca, tucked away in the hills, away from the hustle of the coast. It’s the kind of place where the calm of the countryside just washes over you. Tranquil, welcoming, and full of the kind of traditional hospitality that you can’t quite put into words, a true reflection of rural Croatia. The warm welcome we received here has made this spot feel like a refuge - where time isn’t rushing by, where the days are still filled with the sounds of nature, and the nights are cool and crisp. The stillness here feels like the world slowing down for a moment, letting us catch our breath and appreciate the simple beauty of life in this corner of the world.

Today wasn’t about the big, dramatic moments - it was about the small, fleeting connections that sometimes make our travels really special. The dusty old tractor that hummed away in the field, the laughter of villagers exchanging stories over coffee, the proud Croatian flags waving in the sun - these are the moments that define our journey; reminding us that, sometimes, it’s the quiet, slow days that end up being the most beautiful ones.

 

Wednesday 1st October: Day twenty nine  – week five

A Moonlit Escape, the Mysterious Night and onward to Rovinj

We are off by 7:50 a.m. today, a bit reluctant to leave Kamping Peruca behind. The place, rustic as it is, has a charm that tugs at the heart. I keep glancing back as we pull away from our tiny rural haven, but the road ahead promises fresh adventures, and so onwards we go.

I’m a little bleary-eyed this morning, but last night's stargazing still pulses vividly in my mind. Let me paint the scene for you: it was a chilly night, crisp and clear, with the vast cosmos and its infinite possibilities stretched above. The only light came from the late-rising full moon -mysterious, ethereal and soft - its glow casting silver beams through the forest. With my trusty light-pollution filter, I wasn’t too worried about the moon’s interference during my astrophotography session.

Set up just beside the van, nestled on the edge of the woods, a mere 20 metres from the looming shadows of the trees, the night was alive with sounds - the hoots of tawny owls, the distant cracking branches as wild boars rummaged through the underbrush, and the steady chorus of sheep dogs barking in the distance. Sounds echoing across the hills like whispers of another world, the landscape itself felt as if it was breathing, alive and watchful.

But then, a shiver crept down my spine – a DNA warning handed down from ancient forefathers. Something had shifted. Suddenly, the air felt different. The owls had fallen silent, their haunting calls vanishing as though the very forest held its breath. The wild boars, once so eager in their nocturnal pursuit, now eerily still. The local sheep dogs, began to bark - furious, frantic, their calls sharp and piercing. Something was afoot.

Between the trees, I saw them - shadows. Sleek, fast-moving forms slipping through the moonbeams. I held my breath. Wolves? A howl cut through the night like a blade of ice, primal and spine-chilling. And terribly close. There was no denying it now - the legends are true. Under a full moon, Wolves truly do howl, and the sound pierced me to my core. It wasn’t just noise - it was a sound that echoed in my bones, a reminder of something ancient, something untamed, something primeval.

In what can only be called the ‘quickest astrophotography kit pack-up in history’, I fled the scene. The night’s stargazing cut short, and my record-setting exit not going unnoticed. As I slid beneath the duvet, a sleepy voice whispered in the dark, “Why are you back so early?”  “Wolves” I replied. “So, what are you doing back in here?” came the playful unconcerned reply. “Get back out so I can get the life insurance”. Words failed me - this is the second time this trip she has pulled this retort on me -  so I just muttered and pulled the duvet tighter around me. I did consider warming my cold feet on her warm ones – but that would have been an instant death sentence. I’m brave – not stupid!


The road ahead stretches long and far today - a big leap northwards - toward Rovinj, where we will spend a few nights before continuing our journey through Poreč and back to Slovenia. As we headed up Route 1, the landscape seemed to shift once more. Knin, the sprawling town nestled in a vast bowl of limestone ridges, unfolded before us - an industrial giant marked by the echoes of the past where abandoned factories and utilitarian, communist-era apartment blocks stood like ghosts of another time, reminders of a world that once was.

From Knin to Gracac, along route 50, we drove through valleys that felt like secret worlds. Towering escarpments loomed over us, their craggy peaks like ‘watchful’ sentinels over the earth below. In between, deep gorges whispered stories of ancient forces and each curve of the road seemed to draw us deeper into the heart of Croatia’s wild spirit.

We made a brief stop in Ogulin, a small town with a big story to tell. There is a small car park 400m down from a small castle, perched like a guardian over the Dobra River canyon. Built in 1500, this fortress was a relic of a time when the Ottomans ravaged the region, and the people sought shelter behind its walls. The castle’s museum, though modest, told of battles fought and lives changed. In one room, we found poignant photographs from the 1991-95 Croatian War of Independence - images that brought the weight of history crashing into our present. Google Translate helped us work out that the area around Ogulin played a major role in preventing the Serb rebels from merging with occupied territories elsewhere in the region. 




And, I found a treasure close to my heart - an exhibit on alpine mountaineering. An opportunity to gently run my fingers over old, familiar climbing gear; remembering a time when my limbs were a little less stiff and my brain a lot more adventurous.

Don’t miss the room devoted to the celebrated fairy tale author Ivana Brilic-Mazuranic either. All the above and ethnology, archaeology and art exhibitions, for 1.5 euros each. Worth every cent.

After our enriching visit to Ogulin, we made our way to Sabljaci Camper Stop, a serene retreat by Lake Sabljaci. The weather had turned unexpectedly cold - grey skies, biting winds, and a chill that made even the bravest of us bundle up in thick coats. It was the first day we’d worn trousers and not shorts since arriving, and I found myself huddled in a duvet jacket, feeling the cold sink deep into my bones.




Still, the campsite had its charms - neat, tidy, and welcoming. The pitches were well-maintained and level, with each offering electric and water hook-ups. The facilities were modern and clean, although only a few showers and toilets for each sex; not many for a thirty-pitch site. The welcome schnapps from the owner lifted Maggie’s spirits no end – she got mine as well; potent enough to singe the edges of her insides by all accounts!

Though the lake lay just a short walk away, few ventured out - it was too cold for comfort. Under clear, sunny skies and night time open vistas of stars and constellations, this place would be perfect for a couple of nights – walking, exploring and stargazing! Gates get locked each night and a bonus – there is a doggy shower down the bottom of the site along with gooseberries and raspberries growing behind each pitch – free to overnighters!

The day had been full - we had seen the layers of history, touched the past, and ventured into the unknown. A great day.

Costs today: fuel 52 euros. Museum 3 euros. Tolls 13 euros. Campsite 25 euros with ACSI card.

 

Thursday 2nd October: Day thirty  – week five

This morning, we found ourselves at Plodines, a Croatian supermarket that has quickly become our secret indulgence. It’s a world apart from Lidl in Croatia (and where we shop back in the UK). It’s funny, the little things that mark the passage of time, like the quiet ritual of grocery shopping that feels different in each country. By 8:00 a.m., we were already navigating the aisles - two early risers, hunting for sustenance in the heart of Ogulin.

The night had been a calm one, but colder than we anticipated - the sort of chill that whispers of winter's fast approach. I found myself reaching for the heater switch in the early hours - an impulse born from the harsh cold outside that was wrapping itself around ‘Bryony’ (our motorhome) like a creeping fog. Winters in this part of Croatia must be harsh, a fact that becomes apparent when we take in the view of the neatly stacked log piles that seem to adorn every lawn and driveway. These piles, so perfectly symmetrical - are not mere firewood, but wooden monuments to survival in a land where the seasons clearly demand respect. Typically, a log pile might stand around 1.5m high, 5m in length and 0.6m in width - neat and compact. Here, however, the logs are giants, double the size of what we’ve found elsewhere. We even saw tree trunks, lying across front lawns, waiting to be split. They take their winter fuel wood supplies very seriously up here!

What also struck us quickly, was the individuality of the houses. As we drove through the suburbs, we saw no mass housing estate developments. No rows of identical homes. Instead, each house had its own character, as if shaped by the hands of a master artisan architect rather than a construction crew. A collection of stories, each residence telling its own tale of history, culture, and pride. A few common threads ran through them all - steep, sharply pitched roofs, with iron brackets crisscrossing them like an intricate lattice, clearly designed to hold the weight of snow during the harsh winters. And those window boxes, overflowing with vibrant flowers, carrying the essence of the Croatian spirit: colourful, proud, and welcoming.


As we journeyed, we noticed the locals offering the fruits of their labour by the roadside - pumpkins, sacks of potatoes, and massive bundles of cabbages. Huge, hearty cabbages, the size of large footballs. We couldn’t help but smile, wondering what it was about this part of Croatia that made such humble produce seem like suddenly discovered treasures. And the maize, still standing tall and unharvested, adding an unexpected dash of gold to the fields, bright yellow cobs nestled in golden, blackened husk leaves, hinting at stories of the past summer’s warmth.

But then, the unexpected arrived. We had just got onto the motorway when we hit a roadworks detour that tested our patience and nerves in ways we hadn’t yet prepared for. The traffic divided into two lanes, one running on the other carriageway. Somehow, and this remains a bone of contention between us as to whose responsibility it was not to make the navigation mistake, we managed to get into the wrong lane and so were diverted off the motorway onto narrow, winding roads, where we found ourselves navigating through villages where roads were more obstacle course than transport route. For miles, the one side of the road was torn up, leaving a trench - a 10-foot deep, 10-foot wide gash in the earth, a raw scar in the highway.

At times, I felt like I was playing a high-stakes game of dodgems, trying to avoid plummeting into the abyss, or colliding with gravel lorries and contractors’ trucks. There were three moments when I thought we might topple in, the edge of the road so narrow that the rear of the van teetered precariously over the chasm to the side of us. At one point, mounting the high pavement curb to avoid the yawning gulf on the other side, a workman, his face drenched in sweat, offered a shrug and a grin, his finger wagging in a silent gesture of “Phew, that was close.” And close it was. I had the rear wheel 1” from the abyss and the bike rack and half of Bryony’s rear end overhanging it.  For much of the time, I’m sure Mag had her eyes closed and fingers crossed!

What made this situation worse was that where they had filled in the trench, it was rough unpacked gravel and a nightmare to drive on, so we were, for the second time in only a few days, forced to drive along the opposite carriageway; until a vehicle heading along it in the right direction, forced us to slowly creep onto the gravel section our side. 

Stressful? Not half it was!

This detour, though stressful, brought with it a changing landscape. From the wintery mountain interior, we were slowly descending toward the coast, and with each mile, the environment shifted once more like a landscape painting evolving before our eyes. We began in thick fleeces and duvet jackets, battling the morning chill, and by the afternoon, we were shedding layers and feeling the warmth of the sun on our skin, trading winter blues for summer hues. It was as if we had stepped through a ‘Mr Ben’ door into a new world - a world where the mountains came down to kiss the deep blue Adriatic sea.

As we drove just above Rijeka, we marvelled at the monumental civil engineering works taking place along the cliffsides. Drilling into the rock face, securing steel bolts to hold up massive nets that would protect the motorway from falling debris, engineers worked towering machines in plumes of thick choking dust, winning renewed respect from us both.  We’ll never complain about the downsides to teaching again, after witnessing what these civil engineers had to endure.

Finally, after what seemed a never ending journey, we arrived in Rovinj, a town nestled on the edge of the Adriatic. We had chosen our campsite - Kamping Porton - not only for its proximity to the sea, just a stone’s throw away, but also for its welcoming atmosphere. It was a perfect mix of the simple and the sublime, with luxury chalets nestled among the motorhome pitches, where the sound of the waves was a mere ten metres away. The staff greeted us with warmth, and the facilities were clean, with plenty of hot water. And there was a highly prized washing machine – the mundanities of life never go far away, do they?

Getting to our pitch was an adventure in itself. The site, perched on a hill, required a careful dance of manoeuvring and precision - like threading a needle, the steep incline and narrow entry onto our pitch posing a challenge. We made it - just. Still, I couldn’t help but worry about reversing out when we finally left - with that tight space behind us and the next terrace wall running along one side. That, as they say, is a problem for a few days’ time.



The afternoon found us wandering into Rovinj, drawn by its promise of beauty and history. The walk along the coast, past the old railway station, a boatyard, and a tuna cannery, was a perfect introduction to the town’s charm. As we wandered through its marble-paved streets, polished by the centuries of footsteps that had passed before us, we discovered tiny art shops, hidden boutiques, and café terraces overlooking the sea. The church at the top of the hill loomed like a sentinel, guarding the town’s secrets, its bells calling us to explore further.




There was a sense of timelessness here - of a town that had lived, loved, and breathed through centuries. And as the sun dipped low on the horizon, casting golden hues over the water, it felt like the perfect end to another chapter of our romantic adventure.

It has been a great day – unfolding like a well – worn map, with unexpected detours, breathtaking scenery and little interlude moments that remind us that life is truly a journey.

Costs today:

  • Fuel: 52 euros
  • Tolls: 23 euros
  • Campsite: 30 euros per night (four nights)

 

Friday 3rd October – Day Thirty-One, Week Five

One of Those Easy Days

It felt positively Arctic when we stepped outside this morning. A slight exaggeration, perhaps - the temperature was a perfectly respectable 14°C and the sun was shining - but the Bura wind had other ideas. It cut straight through us, sharp and unapologetic, turning a mild day into something that felt much colder. Think sunshine with teeth.

So, layered up in double fleeces and long trousers, we set off on our bikes. The plan was a gentle ride along the local cycle track, which follows an old railway line. And when they say “old railway line”, they really mean it. In several places, the original steel rails still poke through the gravel. Someone, at some point, clearly thought, “That’ll do”, and simply tipped gravel straight over the tracks. It felt a bit like cycling over buried history - the past never quite out of sight beneath our wheels.



The scenery started off well: beaches fading into olive groves, then long polytunnels sheltering fruit and vegetables like white caterpillars stretched across the land. After a while though, the route became rather samey. Long stretches boxed in by hedges and trees meant the surrounding countryside mostly stayed hidden. It was a bit like walking through a corridor when you know there’s a great view just beyond the walls.




After about five miles, we diverted into a village for coffee - a decision we never regret - and eventually reached a tiny village around two miles further on. Coffee consumed and legs sufficiently exercised, we decided to call it a day and headed back.

Back at the campsite, we dropped off the bikes and walked into Rovinj instead. Lunch, a couple of drinks, some postcard shopping, and a gentle beachfront stroll followed - the kind that requires no effort and no timetable. Eventually, we wandered back to Bryony, our motorhome, feeling pleasantly unhurried.





As luck would have it, there was a washing machine available - a rare treat on the road - so laundry went on, Bryony got a quick interior tidy, and the rest of the afternoon was spent exactly as it should be: reading, light route planning, and doing very little else.

This is what we call an easy day. No big miles, no grand sights - just the quiet joy of motorhome life done right.

Costs today: coffee stop and lunch — €12 total.

 

Saturday 4th October – Day Thirty-Two, Week Five

Following the Sun by Bike in Rovinj

“Go south,” they say. “Follow the sun.”
So we did. On E-bikes.

Today’s joint conclusion, arrived at, while pedalling along the coast, is that we’re probably camped at the naff end of the bay - and that’s saying something, because even the ‘naff’ end here is still rather lovely. That said, once we reached the sprawling campsite on the far peninsula, our opinion shifted slightly. Actually … we may have chosen our spot very well indeed.

If you’re after postcard-perfect beaches, turquoise-green seas, pine forests, and views dotted with tiny islands, then our advice is simple: cycle through Rovinj and keep heading south along the coast. Pass the glossy marina area - you’ll know it when you see it – marble and designer boutiques - and just keep going. What follows are wide, flat gravel paths winding through fragrant pine forests, leading to small stone beaches and rocky platforms that are perfect for swimming from. It’s the sort of coastline that makes you slow down without even realising it.



When it’s time to stop, look out for the ‘Soul Food’ shack. A wonderfully laid-back, California-style beach vibe transplanted into Croatia. Great music, relaxed atmosphere, and cracking views over the water. Cash only - worth knowing - and absolutely worth stopping because it’s just back off the beach underneath wonderful tall pine trees.

Swimming, however, was off the cards today. The Bura wind has arrived, bringing cooler temperatures, thin high cloud, and a definite drop in UV levels. The sea looked inviting, but only the brave (or foolish) were venturing in this morning.




That said, I could very happily embrace the chilled beach-shack life. Give me a beach with gently lapping waves, warm clear water, reefs to snorkel over, and big open skies at night for astrophotography, and I’m a contented man.

Later in the afternoon, we strolled back along the seafront into Rovinj for ice-cream sundaes and a bit of people-watching. Both slightly naughty. Both utterly delicious.

Took a few tries but eventually managed to get this night time shot of Rovinji from the beach bar just outside the campsite entrance 

Sunday 5th October – Day Thirty-Three, Week Five

Stormy Motorhome Life Under the Pines in Rovinj

Ouch. What a night.

High winds, relentless rain, and an alarming flurry of pine cones raining down onto poor Bryony’s roof like nature’s own percussion section. Lesson learned: parking a motorhome under pine trees during a storm is not ideal. Atmospheric, yes. Sensible, no.

Morning revealed the aftermath. A patchwork of four-inch-long twin pine needles was plastered across the skylight, while the windscreen was partially buried beneath thin branches, pine needles, and a scattering of small cones. The area below the wipers - the “gutter”, as I’ve come to call it - was absolutely chock-full of needles. Pine needles, it turns out, have a remarkable ability to get everywhere.

And just to add to the drama, it rained. All morning. Solid, determined rain.

At around 9am, I made a mercy dash to the local bakery kiosk on-site, battling the weather for four croissants and two raspberry-and-chocolate muffins with vanilla cream filling. Heroic stuff. That haul, combined with copious amounts of caffeine, kept us going until around 3pm, when the clouds finally began to break and the sun tentatively peeked out.

Freedom at last.

We escaped for a walk into Rovinj and back, purely to stretch our legs and remind ourselves that fresh air still existed. On returning, the glamorous side of motorhome life resumed: clearing out the engine bay, re-cleaning the windscreen, topping up the water tank, and generally dealing with all the unglamorous but necessary jobs that keep life on the road ticking along.

Thrilling stuff. We could barely contain our excitement.

And then there was the small matter of paying the ASFINAG Austrian toll invoice they’d sent us. Complicated? Not half. What should have been a quick admin task turned into a two-hour ordeal. At one point, we genuinely watched our lives slowly peter away before our own eyes.

Next up: figuring out how to return the Go-Box if we don’t pass back through Austria. But that, as they say, is very much a mid-week problem.

 





 

Monday 6th October – Day Thirty-Four, Week Five

Motorhome Stopover in Ljubljana: Park & Ride, Castles and Chaos

Start mileage: 27,383

We were away early and rolled into Ljubljana by 10am, feeling rather pleased with ourselves. For visiting the city by motorhome, we used the Park and Ride facility at Stanežiče, just northwest of the centre - a sensible, no-nonsense option that ticks most of the right boxes.

The pitch itself was flat, spacious, and cost just €11 for the night. Grey and black waste disposal were good, and payment was straightforward via the EasyPark app. On paper, it should also have had electric hook-up - in reality, that was more of a suggestion than a guarantee. Of all the hook-up points available, only three bollards were actually working… and all three were already taken. So, gas it was for the night. Irritating, but manageable.

We skipped the freshwater fill-up as the tap looked decidedly unloved, and instead headed straight for the bus stop.



The bus into Ljubljana city centre was refreshingly easy. A straight run, plenty of stops, but only about 20 minutes inbound. Buses run every ten minutes in both directions and cost just €1.50 each way - excellent value and very motorhome-friendly.

The return journey, however… was a different beast entirely.

We caught a mid-afternoon bus and immediately hit gridlock. Absolute, full-blown chaos. In 30 minutes, we barely covered two kilometres. The bus was packed like a tin of sardines, with barely anyone able to squeeze on at subsequent stops. The culprit? Major engineering works on the outer ring roads. Once past the ring-road junction, traffic flowed freely again - but by then the damage was done. The return trip took almost 40 minutes, double the inbound time.

Once in the city, though, Ljubljana quickly made up for it.

The place is architecturally stunning - elegant, colourful, and effortlessly charming. We wandered the main streets, soaking it all in, before catching the funicular up to Ljubljana Castle. Coffee and chips followed in the bustling marketplace, because balance is important.




Castle entry was €19 each. Was it worth it? Sort of. There are a couple of museums, a well-done presentation on the castle’s history, and a handful of bars and restaurants. But the real showstopper is the view. From the tower, the city spreads out below you like a map, and in the distance, snow-capped peaks rise on the horizon. As a geographer, that view alone almost justified the ticket price.

One thing we noted: Ljubljana is very doable in a single day. You can see, eat, stroll, and explore without feeling rushed - ideal when you’re touring by motorhome and keeping an eye on miles and costs.





Back at the Park & Ride, the night was pleasantly peaceful. A few buses came and went, and there was some distant road noise, but nothing intrusive. We slept well. 

Value for money? It would have been absolutely spot-on if the electric hook-ups were actually working. But they weren’t. Ho hum - that’s motorhome life.

Costs today:

Castle entry: €38       Park & Ride: €11      Tolls: €21








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