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Breaking south to the end of Cornwall July 2025
Monday day One
We packed up most of Bryony the day before, as has become
our normal routine. We are away from the storage site and heading south for St
Buryan, by 1000 hrs. Destination, one of our favourite hidey holes – Tower
Camping, right down near Sennen.
A grass pitch with electric hook up surrounded on two sides
by lovely hedgerows full of birds. Wide big sky views. The site is practically
empty; we have timed it just right. Our home for the next five nights.
By 2pm we are strolling down from the top car park at
Sennen. Down the hill admiring stunning blue green seas and golden sands. Who
needs the Med when we have this on our near doorstep. An ice cream sat outside the lifeboat
station, a rummage in the various galleries and craft shops. The steep ascent
back up the track to the car park.
A great start. Already feeling well chilled and they are
predicting a seven-day heatwave. Perfect timing!
Costs: five nights with EHU £125
Tuesday Day two
We have cheated on this trip bringing both the little blue
car and the E-bikes. So, this morning we start at the Sennen indoor craft
market for an hour before heading into St Just for a coffee stop. Down the road
for a stroll up the Cape Cornwall headland – a milky way photography reccy and
then down to Mousehole for an afternoon ice cream and browse around the shops.
I keep forgetting how stunning an uncrowded Mousehole harbour is. There is
nowhere to park a motorhome in Mousehole so just don’t bother. Secondly, the
roads are very narrow and the road down to the quayside car parks is a
nightmare as cars cannot pass each other – so park on the cliff top one to the
east!
And then late afternoon/evening chill’in outside the
motorhome in the warm sunshine. Lazy days, eh? We buy fish‘n’chips from the local van that
calls in at the site on certain nights. Too lazy to cook!
Costs: Parking at Mousehole £2.90 for two hours
Wednesday Day three
We cycle to Land’s End where we find it remarkably
uncrowded. First time I have ever managed a shot of the famous signpost without
grocles in it. We don’t count as grocles cos we are from just up the road over
the Tamar! Well, that’s what we tell ourselves. I am sure the Cornish will have
a different viewpoint, no doubt!
Back to the site, lunch and another lazy afternoon reading
books and napping.
Later, I spend the night trying to image IC 1396, an
emission nebula. I’m not that hopeful, after all it’s almost a full moon and it
is so bright that I don’t need a torch! But being an astrophotographer is about
getting out there; connecting to the vastness of the universe in a deeply
personal way. Whether I am likely to get success or not on some nights is
immaterial. Just sat there looking up at stars and planets, nebulae and
galaxies, is exciting. A profound sense of awe, wonder and connection to the
infinite beyond. We came from stardust; we will return to stardust! Of course,
it’s nice to actually get a decent image – a reward for all that patience,
precision and research. The excitement of your first image on the rear camera
screen; the faint revealing of a cosmic beauty tinged with the thrill of later
processing work. Artistry, drawing out the faintest of colours and structures;
enhancing stars and background sky and reducing pervasive light pollution hues
and gradients.
Thursday Day Three
We visit Trengwainton Gardens – a national trust property.
Why? Because it is such a scorching day and we needed the shade and cool of
lovely shady woodland paths! It’s also because I didn’t climb into bed until
0330 this morning! So, I am slightly down on sleep!
Originally developed in the 19th century by the Bolitho
family, the garden reflects that Victorian passion for exotic plants, with many
species grown from seeds brought back by plant hunters from distant lands. Now
managed by the National Trust, we found it to be lush and sheltered, full of subtropical
plants. Winding paths, blooming magnolias, giant tree ferns, vibrant
rhododendrons, trickling streams. The walled kitchen garden, built,
interestingly enough, to the same dimensions as Noah’s Ark, adds some quirky
charm. From the top most garden area we had sweeping views across Mount’s Bay.
It is rather a romantic escape, in a funny kind of way; tranquil atmosphere and
storybook beauty. Like stepping into a timeless, enchanted world of ‘The Secret
Garden’, ‘Tom’s midnight garden’, and ‘The little white horse’.
The rest of the afternoon was spent chill’in back at Bryony.
Why not! We are on a mini break!
Friday Day four
One of us had the daft idea of cycling down to Newlyn
Harbour – because the effort would be physically good for us; she said!
Having discovered there isn’t much to see at Newlyn, with no
disrespect to the village, we grab a coffee and cake at the very nice café
behind the car park and brace ourselves for the very hard climb back up out of
the village to St Buryan. Thank heavens for turbo mode on the E-bikes is all I
can say.
Having recovered for an hour or two back at Bryony, we take
the car down to Sennen. We take a gamble that there will be a space down at the
beach car park (there never is) and by sheer luck as I come to the end of it, a
car pulls out of a space right next to the steps down to the beach. RESULT!
The beach is hosting a primary school sports day and it is
wonderful to see primary kids enjoying the sea and races on the golden sands.
Well done that school – splendid idea.
Under our cheap beach brolly, we laze, chill, read books and
gaze at a beach scene which would do the best Mediterranean beaches justice. There
is something about Sennen. Perhaps it reminds me of Rhossili beach on the
Gower, where I grew up as a teenager. But perhaps its more. Golden sands,
turquoise seas, dramatic Atlantic waves. Open skies, salt spray. A sense of
escape from our normal humdrum busy lives. A laid-back surfy vibe, vibrant
sunsets, exposed cliff top walks. A community of artists and photographers. Being
at the ‘end’ of our country, literally.
We stay under the brolly, reading books, until the incoming
tide, creeping between rocky outcrops, forces us to relinquish our spot. Back
on site, we broke out the Cadac and cooked peppers and veggie burgers. Chilled.
We are soooo chilled!
Saturday Day Five
From one of our favourite sites, we are heading up the spine
of Cornwall to Carnon Downs Touring Park. An adult only park. And, we really
like it. We arrived just after midday, having stocked up at Penzance Morrisons,
where we also grabbed the Saturday papers and had a coffee.
Our pitch was level, gravelled and fully serviced (electric,
water and grey waste). We had pitch 2 with stupendous views across southern
Cornwall. A little toilet block 20m walk
away and a really warm welcome from the owner Ali.
The afternoon was spent visiting Trelissick. We love this
national trust property. An interesting history and stunning views across
Carrick Roads. Beautiful woodland gardens to wander around as well. A firm
favourite.
Sunday Day six
The hottest day of the year so far, and yes it really was
hot. We cheated, taking the car down to Falmouth. We strolled, popped into
various shops and galleries and then headed back to the site for a chilled
afternoon reading. We are getting really, really lazy, but after a hectic few
weeks it is welcomed. We also went for a walk down to Devoran and back – a
circular 1 hr stroll. The site gives you
a leaflet with a map and directions. Nice walk, nice estuary views. And a pub
stop if you want it as well – an old traditional pub on a hillside!
Monday Day Seven
“Let’s go for a bike ride” she said. “Let’s do the
one we like – coast to coast. We haven’t done it for a few years so it will be
fun!”
OMG – we had forgotten how varied and beautiful the scenery
is on this trip and what a variety of surfaces you ride over. Known as the ‘Coast
to Coast Trail’, it’s an 11-mile route that follows a disused tramway and
mining railway; largely traffic-free path and perfect for families, casual
cyclists, and nature lovers. Tarmac,
gravel tracks, muddy tracks. Bumpy in places. Plenty of gradient both up and
down but the views at Portreath are worth it, as is the coffee and cake at the
little café on the roadside just outside the car park entrance. It was around
25 miles round trip and, on the way back, there are two potential café stops on
the route in the Bissoe area, both excellent.
If you are interested in industrial archaeology then this is a cycle
route for you. The historic heart of Cornwall’s mining heritage—now a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, with remnants of engine houses and old mining structures,
arsenic waste tips and capped mine shafts. Wildflowers and birdsong, lily
covered ponds and beautiful woodland, all creating a deep sense of history and
tranquillity.
It is one of our favourite cycle rides, connecting two very
different coastlines with the archaeological history of our neighbouring
county, Cornwall. It is also a ride that always manages to leave both of us
windswept and tired but feeling accomplished!
Tuesday Day Eight.
We depart at 0815 and are home by 1030. By midday we have
unpacked everything and returned Bryony back to her storage site. Another trip
done; more memories made, more experiences shared. Wonderful.
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