Driving a motorhome in Italy

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Driving in Italy – what have we learned so far?

Please do not think I am about to reinforce negative stereotypes. This is not my intention. The vast majority of Italian drivers have been courteous and law abiding.

However, a significant minority: OMG!

I still haven’t worked out whether traffic lights in Italy are the law or mere suggestions, or even just gaudy street decorations?

At junctions where three or more roads converge, Italians seem to take matters into their own hands. I was overtaken at a red traffic light by a Fiat Panda which then cut across me. I was about to turn left. She turned right. The light was still red!  Impatience is a national trait on the road! Maybe I need to be more impatient to fit in?

Speed limits, advisory or mandatory? Jury out. It seems that most Italians merely regard them as ‘guidance’.

Same as a solid ‘no overtaking line’. A piece of road bureaucracy to be ignored at all costs. Especially when approaching bends!

Or those ‘Give way’ stripes on the road that converge in from your right-hand side. Someone cut up the inside and then pulled in front of me as I was about to approach a line of parked cars – he cleared our front fender by 3 inches. Not the first time that’s happened on this trip. And I’m being generous here – it was probably less than three inches!!

Italians seem to drive aggressively even if they don’t mean to. They are so impatient to get to their destination as quickly as possible. You need eyes in the back of your head, and one on each side too!

Hand gestures. Wow! The lady at Montepulciano who insisted I fit a 7.5m long and 2.86m wide motorhome into a gap that was a metre shorter on each length. When I refused, she was so irate, her arms and hands were like pistons whirring – almost a blur! I genuinely have no idea what some of the gestures meant but none of them were complimentary!

Coming around corners on your side of the road at speed. A national preoccupation with meeting death head on!

Driving so close to the vehicle in front. As I’ve had to tap the brakes, several Italians have tried to join us in our cab for a conversation!

And when out cycling? Most Italians pass you safely but again there are some who pass you with less than a metre distance. The Swiss and Germans seem really bad at this by the way! Is it too much to ask them to pass at 1.5m distance? I swear blind I’ve accelerated on the slipstream of some passing vehicles!

And what about Italian roads?

Rural roads are delightful but often poorly maintained. They are often narrow and twisty and tricky to navigate at times. I’ve finally understood what is meant by ‘tramlined’! Bryony’s front wheels suddenly get stuck in these ruts… and whooa there…. !

 Road signs are small and densely packed together. One sign can contain a whole host of information!

Zebra crossings! Ouch! I think the rule is that if a person steps on to it, you must stop, irrespective of how close you are when they venture onto it. On the other hand, traffic doesn’t seem obliged to stop at one if you are about to step onto it. Confused? Me too! 

Watch out for the roads where pedestrians and traffic share the same surface area and pedestrians just walk straight in front of you with the grim reaper sat on their shoulder! A 4T motorhome does not stop at 5 miles an hour within 1 metre!

And watch out for those traffic zones – ZTF’s. Small signs, really small signs! And google maps will try and route you through them. I think at Catiglione della Pescaia I may have inadvertently gone up one of the roads within the zone! So, I am expecting a fine on returning to the UK!

The converse – the good stuff.

Some of the scenic routes are genuinely breathtaking in their beauty. The rolling hills of Tuscany are stunning! Windy roads passing by olive plantations and vineyards on the way to isolated hilltop medieval cities. Wonderful!

Pitstops at local bars! Have not found a dodgy one yet. Great coffee, fantastic pastries, warm welcomes in all.

Stunning scenery, truly beautiful landscapes, ancient ruins, forts on hilltops, huge medieval towers on the horizon, awe inspiring cathedrals and local churches. Truly, wherever you point your cab front, in whatever direction you go, Italy seems to produce something of immense charm, interest and splendour at some point on the journey!

And what are Italians really like?

Well, our encounters have been with campsite hosts, shop owners, bar staff, local guides, passing cyclists. And lots of people watching!

Italians are genuinely amazing! They remind me of the Welsh in some ways. Loud, passionate, fast talking, patient, polite, expressive, funny, smiley. Family orientated. Devout. Fashionable, seriously fashionable! (Not a Welsh trait I am familiar with in all honesty.) Fashion is an absolute art form taken seriously. Pure style even when just chill’n at the local bar.

A land of so many smiles and facial expressions, emotions worn on their sleeves. Efficiency and productivity and a level of craftsmanship which is extraordinary to watch.

A deep love of art and music. Enthusiasm for what they do and enjoy. An appreciation for beauty whether it be art, architecture, music, fashion or design. A sense of pride in their culture, history and heritage. So many museums and galleries. Such a great contribution to world culture, science, literature. Festivals and theatre.

And they take their food and coffee so seriously!  Culinary excellence. Extraordinary cuisine served up with enthusiasm, knowledge, pride. Freshly cooked, fresh ingredients, secret family recipes. Food is to be enjoyed, treated with respect.

Bonkers cyclists by the way. Completely death wish orientated! Same with motorcyclists!

It all sounds stereotypical doesn’t it, but it’s true!  Italians really do seem to love life and people. The number of times we have seen people huddled in little groups chatting, listening, consoling, laughing. Animated, expressive. A sense of family and community. Living life.

Wonderful. Absolutely wonderful.