Up north or Bust Our tour of Northumbria and the East Coast 5th

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Wednesday 5^th – Friday 7th

Bury St Edmunds came as a complete surprise. What a beautiful little town? Why did we end up here? No idea – it just seemed a fun place to go take a look at!

But wait before that, on our journey across to it, we call in at Oxborough House – a National Trust property. We are visiting not for the house but because we have heard they have the oldest oak trees in the land, and given we have a little slice of woodland heaven in our upper garden, we are very interested in trees!

Home to the Bedingfeld family for 500 years, Oxburgh is an imposing lovely looking brick manor house surrounded by a tranquil moat. The story inside reveals one family's unshakable Catholic faith and tale of endurance. Built by the family in 1482 as a statement of power, Oxburgh and the family suffered turbulent times - religious persecution, Civil War devastation, near dereliction and threatened demolition. So, it’s a story of survival. Gothic interiors, ornate architectural additions. Outside, the gardens are a mixture of formal and wilderness, with the kitchen garden, orchard and herbaceous border adding colour and seasonal interest. And for those wanting to explore further, you can follow one of the estate walks through woodland, along the River Gadder, and out into open meadows.

It was quite a family history and collection - divine protection represented in a 17th-century picture of the Madonna della Misericordia protecting Sir Henry Bedingfeld, the first and his family, following his safe escape from the Battle of Marston Moor. Portraits of the Bedingfeld daughters who became nuns in Lierre, Belgium in the 17th-century, and a 16th-century Antwerp altarpiece purchased by the family in the 1860s for their new chapel, built in 1835 after the relaxation of laws against Catholicism. Vibrant 19th-century wallpapers inspired by patterns from the medieval past by leading designers Cowtan, Crace and Willement and in a few places 18th-century papers surviving beneath these. There was so much to see and admire – an excellent visit!

We headed to our campsite for the night – worn out but enriched.

The next day we headed for Bury St. Edmunds and started with a breakfast in a side street café before spending the morning strolling the streets, the little market stalls and some window shopping and visiting the town museum. That was a fascinating little visit. And a bonus – an exquisite exhibition of Quentin Blake watercolours – inspirational and joyous. Throw in watches, marquetry, and ancient Saxon artefacts – we were instantly engaged and captivated. Then off down to the old abbey grounds and exploration of that area and an ice cream in the park.

Our site for a couple of nights by the way was Church View campsite, which we pretty much had to ourselves. Level site, grass pitch with electric. Gated entry via keypad. Clean showers and plenty of hot water and a fantastic kids adventure playpark area next door. Pubs within walking distance but we didn’t visit those. Basic facilities but pleasant, clean and nice ambience.

The West Stow Anglo Saxon village was a great excursion. Reconstructive archaeology I think it’s called – recreate an exact replica of a Saxon village on the original site of one using all the archaeological evidence available The village was occupied from AD420 – 650 (over 400 years before the Norman conquest!). In 1976 the West Stow Anglo-Saxon Village Trust was formally established to manage the site, at that stage there were three reconstructed houses within the village. Now there are eight – ranging from a farmer’s house and hall building to a living house, craft building and weaving house. The buildings are different designed houses using only traditional building methods from that time and the idea is to see which designs prove the most substantial. It was a fascinating visit as was the attached little museum.

Another great morning trip was to the very ancient town of Lavenham. We went to see the National Trust owned Guildhall and within met two residents of the town who were demonstrating traditional spinning techniques used during the 1500’s. One lady used an old traditional spinning wheel whilst another used the same design but powered by a small electric motor. Both ladies were so enthusiastic, knowledgeable and keen to share their vast experience and learning. It was quite mesmerising listening to them. Now I am into my wood working and boat building, so for me, the design and function of the spinning wheels was fascinating. Maggie is into her quilting and textiles – so she was interested by what the ladies were doing. Throw in a coffee and delicious pastry outside the local shop in the square, sat in the sunshine reading the papers before the guild hall opened and it was, frankly, a cracking morning! It is a spectacular wooden framed building along one side of a market square area. The Guildhall of Corpus Christi tells the story of one of the best preserved and wealthiest towns in Tudor England. Stories about the men and women who have shaped the fortunes of this town through 500 years of history!

And there was lots to see around the surrounding streets as well. Shops, galleries and 300+ buildings of historic interest. It surely was one of the wealthiest towns in Tudor England – that wealth permeates the very walls of the buildings. All built on a highly successful wool and cloth industry, most of this produce being exported to bring in substantial tax revenues for the Crown. A number of men became very wealthy merchants in Laverham! And the Guildhall, right at the centre of it all was founded as a meeting place for a Catholic Guild. Such guilds dated back to the 11^th century and were associated with monasteries. By the mid 14^th century they had taken on responsibility for road and bridge repairs, the founding of schools and establishment and upkeep of alms-houses and colleges.

Of course, it could never last and just like today foreign competition and cheaper copies of the famous ‘Laverham brew cloth’ soon saw the town decline. Heavy taxes levied by the Crown on merchants and clothiers meant that many businesses moved on to escape the financial burdens.

And why so many timber framed buildings throughout the town? Evidence of entrepreneurs who spent their wealth – the medieval equivalent of stately homes!

Make sure you see the lovely film of town life during the 1930’s – enchanting!