The September '21 Wales Grand Tour in a motorhome 1

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The September ’21 Wales Grand Tour Day One

Visiting Ross on Wye and Tintern Abbey

Now much better at this ‘packing a few days before we go’ malarkey, we are at the storage site by 9.10am and away by 9.35am. Twenty minutes or so to load up food and various electronic kit (cameras, drone, telescope kit mainly). I check the oil and screen wash as well for good measure. We top up the diesel tank to take it to three-quarters full (£40 of fuel for good measure) on our way out.

The route is simple. Saltash to Launceston, pick up the A30 to Exeter and the M5. We could have gone Saltash and then the A38. (We later discover there isn’t much difference time wise between the two routes. More hills via A30 so probably slightly more fuel consumption going that way.)

Quick stop at Taunton services and Mag does her first ever drive of a motorhome, taking us up to Sedgemoor services. Having never driven anything bigger than a Skoda Yeti before, it’s a new experience for her and, as always, she aces it first time. Having driven minibuses on fieldwork trips for most of my teaching career, driving a motorhome didn’t come as so much of a surprise to me.

We select the northern Severn Bridge route and then up the Wye valley via the A466, stopping off at Tintern Abbey. It has only just opened back up (today in fact) and staff are unable to do an annual subscription to Cadw. “You will need to sort it out online” comes the reply, so for now, we just pay the entrance fee. We will muse on whether it’s worth getting this annual membership later when we arrive in Ross. (Cadw membership would give us 50% off English heritage site entrances for the year as well.)

Tintern Abbey is a monumental, magnificent, roofless wonder, still standing 500 years after it fell from grace.  A Cistercian abbey, founded in 1135, the simple stone church and cloisters were greatly expanded from 1269 and so it came to be one of the most splendid masterpieces of British-gothic architecture. Useful information boards locate you within the ruins and show artists impressions of what it would have been like back in the 1200’s.


It allows you to step back in time and visualise what it might have been like. Here the seven-lancet west window and the soaring arches of the nave are extraordinary. Sadly, the good work of the monks was bought to an end in 1535, for Tintern was one of the very first abbey’s to be surrendered in the dissolution of the monasteries.



 An hour of wandering and reflecting on former glories slips by. Now a major tourist attraction, it is funny to think that this tourism started way back in 1732 when the Buck brothers published an engraving of the ruins; to be followed by the hugely popular Rev. Gilpin’s bestselling account of his ‘Wye River Voyages’ in 1770. His pencil sketches of Tintern provided the raw materials for some glorious watercolours exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1794-95.

There is more to see than just the main monastery building. There are the remains of cloisters, kitchen, refectory hall, gardens and infirmary.


 For me, it brings back great memories of teaching key stage three history; the Yr7 medieval unit on the ‘role of Monasteries’ and the implications of their dissolution for society.  

But don’t overlook the Abbeys location, for there are river walks, local vineyards and steep sided woodlands to explore.

“……………. again I hear

These waters, rolling from their mountain-springs

With a soft inland murmur.—Once again

Do I behold these steep and lofty cliffs,

That on a wild secluded scene impress

Thoughts of more deep seclusion; and connect

The landscape with the quiet of the sky”.

 

So wrote the Young Wordsworth in his poem ‘Tintern Abbey’ (Lines Composed a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey, On Revisiting the Banks of the Wye during a Tour. July 13, 1798).

Five years have passed since he last visited this location, encountered its tranquil, rustic scenery, and heard the murmuring waters of the river. In the opening sections of his poem, Wordsworth recites the objects he sees again, describing their effect upon him: the “steep and lofty cliffs” that impress upon him “thoughts of more deep seclusion”. Leaning against the dark sycamore tree, looking at the cottage-grounds and the orchard trees, whose fruit is still unripe, he sees the “wreaths of smoke” rising up from cottage chimneys between the trees, and imagines that they might rise from “vagrant dwellers in the houseless woods,” or from the cave of a hermit in the deep forest.

The day is come when I again repose

Here, under this dark sycamore, and view

These plots of cottage-ground, these orchard-tufts,

Which at this season, with their unripe fruits,

Are clad in one green hue, and lose themselves

'Mid groves and copses. Once again I see

These hedge-rows, hardly hedge-rows, little lines

Of sportive wood run wild: these pastoral farms,

Green to the very door; and wreaths of smoke

Sent up, in silence, from among the trees!”

The poem is a classic example of the relationship between geography and literature; a quick glimpsing insight into a past geographical landscape. You can read his full poem here https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poems/45527/lines-composed-a-few-miles-above-tintern-abbey-on-revisiting-the-banks-of-the-wye-during-a-tour-july-13-1798

I always think it is worth trying to find some travel literature or poetry of the place you travel through. It brings an added dimension to your understanding of what made the landscape in front of you.

 

 

The misfortune to follow a huge artic truck up the rest of A466 brings a new ‘motorhome’ experience – spine tingling ‘around the corner anticipation’. We have to stop several times to avoid tree branches brought down by the lorry. It is carnage. Will it be a few twigs and leaves or a 3” branch blocking the whole road? Can we drive over it or do we have to stop and physically move debris to clear the road? Ah what fun!  The joys of being the ‘traffic convoy’ leader following a decimating artic lorry.

We duly arrive, unburdened by additional shrubbery, at Broadmeadows Caravan and Camping site in Ross-on-Wye around 4pm and having set up on grass pitch, we go for a walk around Ross town centre, a five-minute stroll away.


Broadmeadows site is £72 for three nights on a grass pitch with water, grey waste and EHU all next to the pitch. Well-spaced out with clean facilities, we had a warm welcome. There is a small fishing lake to stroll around and the whole site is nicely landscaped with trees between some of the pitches. Morrisons supermarket (with a petrol station) is a five-minute walk away.

Ross-on-Wye is a delightful little town. Dominated by the ancient market house in the town centre, there is a castle, some delightful river walks and a variety of ‘local’ shops. The market House was built circa 1650 and it replaced a wooden building which probably dated back to the twelfth century when King Stephen granted Ross the right to hold a market in the area.






What’s with the knitted post caps and tree decorations? We aren’t sure. However, there is a movement called ‘urban gorilla geography’ which does nice little touches like this – so maybe it is this! 

 The route:

A388 – A30 – M5 – M4 – A466 – A40

Distance 220 miles

Expenditure:

£40 fuel

£72 three nights 

Tintern abbey entrance fee - £11 

Car Park £3

Useful websites:

Tintern Abbey website: www.cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/tintern-abbey

Broadmeadows website: https://avon-estates.co.uk/broadmeadow/

Tourist information about Ross on Wye: https://visitrossonwye.com/

Rurality  - when the post office comes to you 










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