The September ’21 Grand tour of mid and North Wales in a motorhome Day 14

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Lazy day

A lazy late start. I need to clean up my astronomy equipment after last night’s observing.  Powerpacks, cameras and skytrackers all need charging up ready for the next session.

As we busy ourselves doing this, we get a phone call. A family emergency. We need to pack up, depart and head south asap.

We get as far as Pwllheli before family members phone to reassure us all is OK and to turn us back around. We stop and grab a coffee to sooth frayed nerves.

Back on site by 1pm, we go off for a bike ride to visit Plas Yn Rhiw, an old medieval Welsh manor house further down the Lleyn peninsula.

The landscape we cycle across reminds us of the far west of Cornwall around St Just and Zennor. A slightly softer landscape perhaps, with more open vistas. Dominated to the north by the steep sides hills of Carn Fadryn, Carn Boduan  and Mynedd Carnguwch, a landscape of fields, scattered small farm holdings and some reclaimed land from the sea stretches in all directions before us. Moorland like with isolated cottages and off to the south, ranges of sand dunes.

Plas Yn Rhiw provides welcome respite from the hot sun. Shaded by oak woodlands, the ornamental gardens are attractive and the views back up the peninsula extensive.

 The 17th century building was for John Lewis, whose family descended from a ninth-century King of Powys and had been at Rhiw since the Tudor times. It then passed down through the family and the house was remodelled and enlarged in the 1820’s. A kitchen was added in the mid-19^th century.

In 1939 the Keating Sisters acquired Plas yn Rhiw and they slowly restored the building, which was by then in a serious state of disrepair (it had been abandoned by previous owners). The three unmarried sisters re-created the remarkable garden, and tirelessly campaigned to protect the environment and in 1946 they donated the surrounding land to the National Trust, followed by the rest of the property in 1952.

Then there are architectural gems inspired by Williams – Ellis (of Portmeirion fame). A distinctive green-slate flagged floor along with a picturesque Gothic door; oak tree trunk columns supporting neo-Georgian plaster arches. All brought here by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis who was a close friend of the Keating sisters. Look out for the wonderful furniture; the wind-up Columbia Grafonola, a Regency secretaire and the 17th century oak chest-of-drawers. Don’t miss the well-stocked medicine cabinet with pills, creams and drops to treat a range of ailments from across the decades.

Whilst visiting here, I complete an environmental SOS rescue. Mag returns from the toilet block to inform me that several baby toads have got themselves trapped in the cubicle. I find them desperately trying to climb the walls and sink pedestal. One by one they get rescued and released into a nice shady woodland patch where mossy stone walls provided plenty of shaded, damp hiding places. I get praise from the ‘boss’ and our ecologist daughter. Perfect! 

Returning to the house, the sisters continued to live in the house, even when it was opened to the public, until Lorna died in 1981. It definitely reflects their personalities and vision. A library including the writings of Sir Clough Williams-Ellis; poetry from RS Thomas.  Dutch Mahogany and marquetry cabinets, a collection of Japanese wood cuts. Within all of the sister’s bedrooms, wardrobes with a range of dresses, furs, elegant gloves and hats – all reflecting fashion through the ages. 

Back at Abersoch, we stop off for ice cream before cutting back across the golf course. A quick diversion down to the launch ramp to admire golden sandy beach and colourful beach huts.

What started as a fraught day proved quite relaxing later on! 

Cycle route:

Sarn Bach – Llanengan – Rhydolion – Barach – Saith Borth – Plas Yn Rhiw

Distance – 27 miles

Update:

The following day we are heading back down south. The family emergency has taken a turn for the worse and we are heading down to offer support and a morale boost. We aren’t sure how many days we will be away from North Wales or whether we will be returning to carry on our planned tour. Worried about what we are driving back to, it is a sombre drive down through mid-Wales.