The September ’21 Grand tour of mid and North Wales in a motorhome Day 9

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On our bikes and stupendous river estuary views 

Out of the campsite, we turn left onto the main road (A493) and then take the next left down to the cycle track at Morfa Mawddach station. Here you will find a car park, toilets and an old station platform. It strikes us that this might make a great one night off grid site and we couldn’t see any signs saying no parking overnight.

Picking up the cycle route, we cross the Barmouth rail viaduct, passing the tiny rocky islands of Cerig y Gorllywn and a school of novice paddleboarders.  

(Note: if you turn right out of Ynys Faig and follow the road down to the Golf course, around another 200m further on, you can pick up an unmarked cycle track across a dyke which takes you to the same point (Morfa Mawddach station) without the need of cycling along the A493.)

 

There are not enough superlatives to describe the cycle route between Barmouth and Dolgellau. It is genuinely spectacular with beautiful views across the estuary. Try to cycle it when you can get to see it with the tide fully in and then fully out. The transformation is extraordinary!

Electing to cycle in to Barmouth first, we stop on the viaduct to watch the fierce some incoming tidal flow under the viaduct spans. It rages through, a deep blue green whirling maelstrom of eddies and foam. Today, engineers are working beneath assembling scaffolding for a bridge refurbishment later next week.

 Barmouth proves delightful. A traditional old seaside town with some amusement arcades on the beach front and behind a lovely main high street full of an eclectic mix of art galleries, seaside shops, boutique designer stores, old book shops, cafes and more things besides. The harbour is pretty, sheltered and backed by lovely sand dunes. There is plenty of parking along the promenade and a lovely sandy beach to walk along.

After coffee, cake, newspapers and a stroll, we are back across the viaduct to cycle up to Dolgellau. (National Cycle Route 8.)

It’s a flat compacted gravel trail that follows an old former railway line.  With the tide fully in and lapping the embankments and sea walls below us, Snowdonia’s peaks across the river are shrouded in mists, only their lower slopes visible. Steep sided and draped with bracken, purple heather, short grass and areas of coniferous woodland, the mountain reflections in the still waters are amazing.

On our right we pass flooded inlets full of reeds and rough pasture land. The raised embankment on which we cycle, forms a natural barrier between the estuary and these hidden ecosystems full of herons and other wading birds.

It starts to rain. You know the kind of rain, that fine persistent drizzle which seems to penetrate all waterproofs. In full waterproofs and waterproof trousers, we are thankful that we invested in Gortex!

We pass canoeists out for a leisurely paddle; minimal paddle strokes except when avoiding the occasional protruding tops of old long ago abandoned fence posts that poke out of the calm, still, silvery waters. Their presence suggests pasture land beneath those river waters. If you have ever cycled the famous Camel Trail in Cornwall, we think this one is much more stunning for its sheer beauty, openness, variety of ecosystems and awe-inspiring scenery.

Penmaenpool and its little wooden toll bridge and riverside pub are a good stop off for a meal or picnic. Throughout the length of this cycle trail there have also been regular sites where picnic benches have been added at good viewpoints. The designers of this trail have made it easy for cyclists and walkers and there are regular information boards about the views and the area. Camel Trail managers take note!

 Arriving at Dolgellau we head into the town square where there is an outside marque awning café and space for us to put the Ebikes alongside us. Great food at reasonable prices.

On our return back down the trail we get a big surprise. The tide has fallen considerably exposing huge areas of marsh grassland alongside the various railway embankments. The little marsh creeks have been exposed and herons stand motionless in them. The floating geese on the outward trip are now grazing the rough grass pastures that were below them earlier in the morning. It is such an amazing geographical transformation. Breath-taking in fact.

As for the river channel sand banks, as a dinghy cruiser I’d hate to be trying to navigate up that lot on a falling tide!

Taking the other route from Morfa Station, we cycle along the flood protection dyke and down the spit to look across the waters to Barmouth and admire the little steam engine which passes us on our journey back to Bryony.

Back in her warm protective interior, we dry out waterproofs on the pulled-out bed rack above the blown air vents.

It’s been a cracking day but we go to bed with a little trepidation. The grass beneath Bryony is now REALLY sodden and puddly. Later in my sleep I dream of ‘sinking’ and waking to find we can’t get out of the motorhome because the mud is half way up the habitation door!

 

Total route distance cycled: 29 miles

Useful websites:

Tourist information Barmouth: https://www.barmouth-wales.co.uk/

The Mawddwch trail: https://www.sustrans.org.uk/find-a-route-on-the-national-cycle-network/mawddach-trail-dolgellau

Barmouth Viaduct: https://www.networkrail.co.uk/running-the-railway/our-routes/wales/restoring-barmouth-viaduct/

Penmaenpool: http://www.mawddachestuary.co.uk/places/penmaenpool.html